Imperial Capitals 3

Day 4 - Prague - Wenceslas Square, Castle, Strahov Library, Dvorak Museum

Today we are defecting from the main group and are diving into Prague under our own steam. We feel like rebels. Waiting for our Uber, we meet Valentina and have to explain we will not be following her today. She seems disappointed. YouTube says that Prague has the second best public transport system in the world. I can believe it. Buying a 24hr ticket I can hop on and off the metro and tram at will. TC being a certain age, does not even need to get a ticket, just a proof of age to enable free travel. No checks on either the tram or the metro and we failed to see any inspectors. Amazing. 

Our first stop is Wenceslas Square (not a square), a political gathering place that has seen great turbulence, including a young man of 20 setting fire to himself in response to the Soviet invasion in 1968. One does notice a sense a pride in the Czech people, very rightly, and an appreciation of the freedom they now enjoy. 

 

Wenceslas Square

Not far away is the is the Opera House. Photographed. Then to the Metro and to the Castle. Even the Metro is colourful. 

Opera House

Prague Castle is a castle, but in no way looks like a castle. There is the most beautiful gothic cathedral, perfectly situated on the hill, with buildings surrounding, called a castle, apparently. The climb to the top is rewarded with beautiful views. 

Construction of the cathedral began in the 1300's and was completed in 1929. 

 

St Vitus Cathedral

Having booked tickets online with an agency, we are instructed to meet someone outside the cathedral with a blue and white umbrella, for the handover of papers. It sounds a bit cloak and daggers, reminiscent of communism, and all rather exciting. The place is heaving. I am relieved to finally locate said umbrella and even more delighted to meet Nikola who gives us instructions.

Nikola - GetYourGuide

A quick whisk around the castle is followed by Czech Beef Goulash and a glass of proper lemonade. This all arrives almost before we have ordered it. As soon as we have sat down the waiter also hands us tokens for the loo. It is very nice to have a free pee. Looing is often an unfamiliar procedure when away from your home country. Crowns, euros, contactless, tokens, it's all very unpredictable. I have twice found myself walking into the ladies due to unclear signs, the second occasion causing alarm to a Chinese lady. I am also wondering if I should have allowed for loo fees in the holiday budget. Spending a penny has reached new levels. 

On to the Strahov Monastery, particularly to see the quite stunning library. Of course, where there is a Monastery there is a brewery. We  plump for a coffee and a sit down. The hills here are everywhere and the legs are complaining. 

Strahov Monastery Library

On to the Dvorak Museum. The Sex museum was an option, but what with the photos I've seen of the museum on Google, and TC's high blood pressure, I think a musical museum might be a better choice. Incidentally, the country seems quite liberal, evidenced by the several cannabis shops around the city, which is apparently legal. 

The Dvorak museum is in a beautiful house but I am disappointed to discover that he actually lived in a flat round the corner. The museum attendant takes advantage of our visit and I am quizzed at length. I'm then told all about his 3 visits to London. I try to persuade him to let me play the piano, but this is not going to happen. We sit to watch the little documentary and TC goes to sleep. It is a quiet and restful place (obviously), and at the end of the visit I'm very much encouraged to sign the visitors book. It is late afternoon and I discover we are the sixth visitors of the day.

Dvorak's Bosendorfer

Our last stop is to Vysehrad, another fortress, but mainly to get some good views of the river etc. Beer and tea ensue, and a rather cheerless waiter who wants cash, tricky when you have no Czech Crowns. Euros are fine here generally but the Czechs hold on to their own currency. Good for them. 

It must be a joy to live in this city. I'm definitely coming back.