Amsterdam 2

Day Three

Today starts with an almost identical breakfast except the caffeine levels are going up. A different waitress but nice enough. I feel happier getting moving and head off to the Van Gogh Museum, a walk away. My aunt is an art expert so I message her. She tells me how lucky I am and to look out for the brush strokes. This is lost on me and tell her I need her here with me. To be honest, Van Go as the Americans call him, is not really my thing but of course he must've been a genius to have a museum named after him. I look for the painting that appears in an episode of Doctor Who but fail to find it. I'm quite early so it's not too crowded, though there's a sign saying all sold out (if you come pre-book!). I'm surprised to fall upon the sunflowers so quickly and find it fairly quiet.

 

If I say it's nice enough I'm probably showing my ignorance, but well, it's nice enough. Sunflowers are actually one of my favourites and smile at you but these seem jaded, sad and lonely. Probably something to do with sex again. I find the painting of his bedroom which I like, but then I love colour. 

 

I wouldn't normally be so uncouth as to do a selfie in an art gallery but people are really getting into it with selfie sticks and all, so it seems a passable thing to do. There's me standing inches away from paint that Van Gogh used. I think that's quite something. But then I suspect he would think it quite something that I handed over money just to look at it. The museum is quite small so I move along and look for boats. 

In Amsterdam a boat trip is not just the thing to do because of all the canals, but sitting on the water gives you the best view of the city. I spot a small open boat about to leave so I hop on. Immediately an Australian starts talking to me and quizzes me about my watch and then we talk about running. I never talk to strangers as much as I do on a solo holiday. The boat is electric so we glide gently along the canals with a few interjections from the driver. It is actually very relaxing. 

We learn lots of things about Amsterdam, mostly about the price of property (in the millions) and the fact that houseboats are more expensive than flats. 

There are actually quite interesting things on the buildings such as winches for getting stuff up to the top floor. Valuables were stored at the top in case of flooding. We are reminded that we are two and a half metres below sea level. Oh er. We end up on the wide Amstel river and are shown the 'dancing houses'. Foundations must be a nightmare here but he reassures us that the houses are quite safe. 

Dancing houses

Next is lunch and I find a lovely cafe/bar close to the end of the boat trip, on a busy junction but cosy and overlooking the canal. One of the loveliest things about Amsterdam is that every time you turn a corner there is a pretty tree lined canal with pavement cafes galore. It is one of the nicest things about being here.

Today I go Dutch and order meatballs. The waitress looks at me quizically and I have to find it again on the menu. 'Ah, you mean Amsterdam meatball', singular. OK, well I'll try it, I reply. When it comes it is indeed a singular ball but the size of a large tennis ball in a very tasty gravy and French bread etc. I'm sitting on a sort of bench stretching across the facade of the cafe and as I begin eating the man next to me says, 'eet smakelijk' (bon appetit) and I reply in Dutch (my halo shines). Later he asks me if I mind him smoking (this is becoming a theme), which I don't as we are outside. Slowly the conversation opens up and he is telling me a lot, as well as asking me questions about myself. At one point he launches into Dutch and I have to admit my Dutch is failing. He is divorced and his wife owned the house so he is miffed and bit stuck. He shows me a photo of a little attic place he has found to rent in Amsterdam which looks very nice. He is perhaps about 70 and interested in music so the conversation continues. He asks me my name and then tells me he is called Richard, my middle name (a coincidence if you have the faith to believe in such things). We spend quite some time talking and watching the tourists and traffic go by. We decide we are actually quite blessed, especially as there isn't a war on. Eventually I thank him and wish him the best. He says that the conversation was 'sparkling'. Well, that's a first.

A short wander to the Vondelpark (think Hyde Park), and then back to the hotel for a rest.. 

 

Tonight is a visit to the Concertgebouw, a world famous concert hall. I have never been and was pleased to see a concert of Beethoven and Wagner performed by the Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra, or the UFO as the programme helpfully points out. The programme also helpfully notes that Beethoven 5 is the one that goes 'ta ta ta tum'. The hall is beautiful and has one of the best acoustics I have heard. 

As for the orchestra, the playing is joyful and energetic and quite exceptional. I am sitting in the choir and find that I am in the middle of a swathe of Ukrainians. There is high energy in the hall. At the end, the conductor says a few words about our fight for democracy and we stand as the orchestra plays a most heart rending arrangement of the Ukrainian national anthem. This is the closest I have come to the awful situation and listening to the music, I am gone. The lady standing next to me lays a hand on my shoulder. A most moving and profound moment I was not prepared for.

Day Four

Today is a quick flit down to the Hague before I fly home. My main reason for visiting is to retrace some steps from 1988 when I was student at the Conservatoire. I am slightly nervous but unsure why. My year here as a student was extremely exciting and happy but I have learned that going backwards is almost never a good thing. The train journey is only 40 minutes. There isn't much Dutch landscape to see as it's flat but it is focuses the eyes on buildings and activity. The Centraal Station in the Hague has changed beyond all recognition. It is now a big, light and airy affair. After dropping my case I make my way to the tram and am surprised how the stop names are familiar. It is after all almost 40 years ago. The routes don't seem that familiar but then I remember I had a bike of course, so probably didn't use trams much. I take the long walk down Riouwstraat and wonder what I'm going to do when I get to the house(s). It's a long story but I first lived in no 4 and then eventually moved into no 2 which was and is the vicarage of the English Church. To my surprise it is almost exactly the same as it was. 

no 4, my room on first floor

no 2, the vicarage

 

I take pictures and sit on a wall. I message a friend in Australia who was here with me and it is good to share the moment. I don't quite know what to do with myself. When I left here in 1989 I was very sad but today it just seems another lifetime ago.

The Hague is not pretty like Amsterdam but it's redeeming features are the lovely beach resort at Scheveningen and of course the Mauritshuis. I have an appointment here with a beautiful young girl. It's a long time since I have seen her. My friend in Oz has asked me to say hi  to her so off I go. And here she is. 

I also find the Goldfinch which I didn't realise was here. Iconic paintings seen and photographed. 

 

This painting by Metsu has to be seen to be believed. 

 

I order 'koffie and appeltaart' and buy a 3D picture of the Girl with the Pearl Earring in the gift shop. Having already bought fridge magnets it is definitely time to find the airport before any more tat is purchased. Tot ziens and thank you for reading.